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My dogs have gotten fleas and they are going to the groomers today to have a flea dip and while they are gone i want to treat the house. I can't use flea bombs because i don't think i can since i have 5 fish tanks, and a crested gecko in my living room. 2 of the fish tanks are rather large so i wouldn't be able to take them out of the house to flea bomb. My living room has a lot of fleas, it's not "infested" but i know there has to be a lot in there. I'm throwing out their old dog beds and replacing them. I really need to find another way to kill the fleas without using a flea bomb- unless there is a way i can protect the fish tanks from the chemicals (the gecko's tank i can simply put in my car) Any tips?
Answer
go to the vet and buy a premise spray, something with a residual effect ... this is a good one - http://www.drugs.com/vet/vet-kem-siphotrol-plus-ii-premise-spray.html ... it won't harm your fish or gecko or people, just fleas ... if you can see a lot of fleas, it is a serious infestation ... and a flea-dip is also pretty useless, get a preventative while you are at the vet and ask how soon you can apply it after the flea dip ... did you know that a flea dip (which i am sure is not inexpensive) is exactly the same as you bathing the dogs in regular dog shampoo and leaving them sudsy for at least five minutes ... exact same result as a flea dip and no harsh chemicals that have no residual effect ... you can also put a flea collar in your vacuum cleaner bag and vacuum every day for thirty straight days as thoroughly as you possibly can to get up and kill as many fleas and eggs in the environment ... but without a preventative FROM THE VET and a premise spray FROM THE VET, you won't be successful in getting rid of the fleas ... do not go to walmart, petsmart, online, etc,. go to the vet to buy your flea products ...
go to the vet and buy a premise spray, something with a residual effect ... this is a good one - http://www.drugs.com/vet/vet-kem-siphotrol-plus-ii-premise-spray.html ... it won't harm your fish or gecko or people, just fleas ... if you can see a lot of fleas, it is a serious infestation ... and a flea-dip is also pretty useless, get a preventative while you are at the vet and ask how soon you can apply it after the flea dip ... did you know that a flea dip (which i am sure is not inexpensive) is exactly the same as you bathing the dogs in regular dog shampoo and leaving them sudsy for at least five minutes ... exact same result as a flea dip and no harsh chemicals that have no residual effect ... you can also put a flea collar in your vacuum cleaner bag and vacuum every day for thirty straight days as thoroughly as you possibly can to get up and kill as many fleas and eggs in the environment ... but without a preventative FROM THE VET and a premise spray FROM THE VET, you won't be successful in getting rid of the fleas ... do not go to walmart, petsmart, online, etc,. go to the vet to buy your flea products ...
How tough would it be for someone to rebuild a Rochester 1bbl carb that has never done it before?
My Dog R
I have a good amount of on-hands, basic "driveway" mechanic experience, and have been selling parts for about 6 years now, but have never attempted a carb rebuild. I have the kit and all the parts, and don't want to mess it up. This is an original equipment carb from a 1967 Corvair, and I would like to avoid buying one if possible. Any suggestions on where to find on-line instructions would be welcome also, as I do not really want to invest in a manual, since I will most likely never have to do this again.
Well, taking it apart and noting where all the parts go would be great if it weren't already in pieces. I gave them both to someone I knew last year who assured me he could rebuild them, and he did do one of them, but he was dragging his feet so I just took them back. I would like to rebuild them not only to save some money but also keeping the car as original as possible would be nice. Anyone in the Pittsburgh area interested in buying a 67 Corvair?
Answer
Finding rebuild information online for your carburetors, or anywhere else for that matter, may be somewhat difficult. The only car that came from the factory with the Rochester HV was the Corvair. Because of that, and the fact that there were never many 'Vairs produced, info is scarce. But don't be alarmed.
The HV is an extremely simple carburetor to work on with relatively few parts. Any good quality rebuild kit will come with instructions, specifications for float level, choke adjustment, etc, and will have a detailed illustrated parts breakdown. Just make sure you get the right kits. While there was only one style of carb use, there were a few different calibrations based on automatic/manual transmission and California/49 state emissions. Make sure you have the number off the tag or carb body. It'll be seven digits starting with the numbers "70".
Final tip. Before you go to all the trouble of tearing them down, cleaning them and rebuilding them, make sure you check the throttle shafts for looseness. Look at each carb on the side the linkage attaches to. If there is any perceptible movement up and down or side to side on the throttle shaft, get the throttle plates bushed. No matter how well a carb is rebuilt, if the shafts are loose, the resulting vacuum leak will make the engine run like pooh. Any competent machine shop or carb rebuilder can do this for you.
Good luck with your endeavor, and if you would like any other advice do the e-mail thing.
Finding rebuild information online for your carburetors, or anywhere else for that matter, may be somewhat difficult. The only car that came from the factory with the Rochester HV was the Corvair. Because of that, and the fact that there were never many 'Vairs produced, info is scarce. But don't be alarmed.
The HV is an extremely simple carburetor to work on with relatively few parts. Any good quality rebuild kit will come with instructions, specifications for float level, choke adjustment, etc, and will have a detailed illustrated parts breakdown. Just make sure you get the right kits. While there was only one style of carb use, there were a few different calibrations based on automatic/manual transmission and California/49 state emissions. Make sure you have the number off the tag or carb body. It'll be seven digits starting with the numbers "70".
Final tip. Before you go to all the trouble of tearing them down, cleaning them and rebuilding them, make sure you check the throttle shafts for looseness. Look at each carb on the side the linkage attaches to. If there is any perceptible movement up and down or side to side on the throttle shaft, get the throttle plates bushed. No matter how well a carb is rebuilt, if the shafts are loose, the resulting vacuum leak will make the engine run like pooh. Any competent machine shop or carb rebuilder can do this for you.
Good luck with your endeavor, and if you would like any other advice do the e-mail thing.
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